There's nothing safe about 20-foot Cloudbreak. Perfect, sure, but by every definition of the word, deadly.
"I almost kind of drowned," said Bruce Irons, who by his own admission was more excited for this South Pacific swell than any other facet of surfing for the last five-plus years. Specifically, the wave he's referring to stands out as the best wave in a dramatic, hard-charging, much-hyped week in Fiji.
Irons, Slater, Healey and ...
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