A seriously deep low pressure off the East Coast makes for serious barrels and grave situations.
November 17, 2009, 11:15 AM
By: Jon Coen
Rich McMullin
Randy Townsend played host while logging a few barrels himself this weekend. Gallery »
Nor'Ida.
Those folks at the Weather Channel
are pretty clever. That's what they decided to call the hybrid system of once Tropical Storm Ida, as it morphed into a disastrous nor'easter off the Outer Banks. Wish I though of that.
Beaches from North Carolina to Maine are strewn with debris this week — beach fence, parts of boats, siding, cedar posts and staircases. Plus, I saw some flip flops and condoms. Why is it whenever there is a large pile of flotsam and jetsam, there's always flip flops and condoms? (Maybe the excitement of the storm draws lovers to the water's edge?)
This was another massive swell event that lit up every New England hook and Jersey jetty. And because of blocking high pressure to the north, the storm just sort of hung right off the coast. The resulting north winds basically had New York pumping for days on end.
t colla
New York had it's day. Actually four days. Gallery »
Ocean City's Andrew Gesler
was visiting his lady in Pennsylvania when the Jersey Shore started to take the beating.
"I was hearing the news reports from 'Down the Shore' about flooding and evacuation. I called my Pops and he said he wasn't evacuating," Gesler explained.
He returned home, and for the next several days sampled some of the most powerful swell New Jersey is capable of.
"We surfed perfect lefts from 8th Street up to 10th Ocean City, just running down the beach. Then we went to LBI (Long Beach Island) where it was just sucking so hard off the sandbar. It was almost impossible to paddle into."
Gesler and crew did manage their way into a few, but not without some consequences as you'll see. He also reported a six-second barrel just before dark on Sunday.
It was unfortunate for the Outer Banks, however, as it bore the brunt of this storm. Even these famed sandbars couldn't wrangle Nor'Ida, as she claimed Highway 12, the only land route connecting the communities south of Pea Island with civilization.
Bryan Elkus
It's cool to have a good break in your backyard. Not so much in your basement. Gallery »
Further north, the New England coast was less abrasive, but served up yet another weekend swell. No lack of action this fall. But according to Gesler, his town saw some of the most beach carnage
in the county, with $84 million in damages.
"The dune at Waverly was eight foot. Now that berm between the coastal road and the ocean is completely gone," he reported.
Rich McMullin
After all the damage, Andrew Gesler was still able to float above it all. Gallery »
Gesler's story is just one of the dozens I have heard the last few days, mixed in with tales of near death experiences on windy bridges, visits from traveling pros, peeling lefts, homes eaten by the ocean, and throaty barrels.
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Contributors
Jon Coen
Jon is from New Jersey and continues to reside there with his wife and dog—which means occasional empty barrels and the occasional session in the snow.The state isn't as dirty as people might think, but he'll let them keep believing that.
Jake Howard
Jake lives, writes and surfs in San Clemente, Calif. He spent his formative gremlin years surfing points north of San Francisco, and for the past 10 years has been contently surviving behind the Orange Curtain.
Kimball Taylor
Author of "Return by Water," as well as books on Jeffreys Bay and Pipeline, Kimball drives a red-hot Camero, and back in the '70s, he used to party with your dad.
Daniel Ikaika Ito
Daniel surfs like a hippie, but dresses like a homie. The Native Hawaiian originally hails from Hilo, but now resides in Honolulu. He enjoys twin-fins, new sneakers and being ESPN's "Cuz On The Scene" in the 50th State.
Jason Kenworthy
About as majestic as a turkey vulture, when he's not schlepping his lens around the world or looking for roadkill, Jason can be found at home in Dana Point, Calif., tending to his growing brood.
