Assessing the damage after the North Shore's first big swell of the season.
November 27, 2009, 2:56 PM
By: Jake Howard
Servais
Meanwhile, on Maui, things were a little more tame ... and a little more perfect.
"I got two that made it all worthwhile," explained Mick Fanning, shortly after returning from his power mission to Honolua Bay. "It was crowded, and one guy almost killed me, but it was a good bit of fun."
The first half of this week was all about the hype. With word of a sizeable north swell, plans were hatched, Surfline's forecast pages buzzed with activity, and local Hawaii news was calling for 20 to 25-foot surf. "I've been studying weather lately, and this swell had a lot of north in it," described Ian Walsh, who joined Fanning, Taylor Knox, Carissa Moore, and about 100 other guys and girls at Honolua Bay. "It looked like it was going to be too big for Oahu, so we blew out to Maui."
Joli
When the reefs start stair-stepping a half mile offshore you're not going to find a whole lot of takers, but it's a heck of a show none the less.
And while there was a mass exodus from the North Shore, some did stick around. Waimea definitely had its moments, and its crowd, but the go-to spot seemed to be Phantoms.
"I was out there when Josh Kerr's leash broke and he lost his board," reported Jamie O'Brien. "His board eventually washed up on the beach and the lifeguards found it. They were freaking out because they couldn't find the person that went with it. Kerr had to swim all the way in. Looking back I guess I could have helped him."
Joli
Sunset Beach in all its terrifying glory.
"There were some good ones out there," said Maya Gabiera, who spent the entire day towing. "These are the swell you wait for and train for so when they come you can take advantage of them. There were some good waves ridden."
And then there was the issue of the contest up at Sunset. "Of all the places in the world, this is one where you call a contest off because it's 'too big' rather than 'too small'," Randy Rarick, Vans Triple Crown Contest Director, said. "We've got 15-to-18-foot surf conditions that are expected to build throughout the day, and it's closing out Sunset Beach so obviously too big for competition. It will be a day for Waimea today. We're off tomorrow for Thanksgiving, and this swell should be slowly declining throughout the next several days so we'll look to catch the backside of it on Friday."
Servais
It rained cats and dogs at Honolua, forcing everyone to seek shelter whever possible.
Reis
The Wednesday afternoon session at Waimea Bay was the call ... and apparently everybody including the Thanksgiving turkey got that call.
Reis
To be sure, there were some good, empty ones to be had at the Bay.
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Contributors
Jon Coen
Jon is from New Jersey and continues to reside there with his wife and dog—which means occasional empty barrels and the occasional session in the snow.The state isn't as dirty as people might think, but he'll let them keep believing that.
Jake Howard
Jake lives, writes and surfs in San Clemente, Calif. He spent his formative gremlin years surfing points north of San Francisco, and for the past 10 years has been contently surviving behind the Orange Curtain.
Kimball Taylor
Author of "Return by Water," as well as books on Jeffreys Bay and Pipeline, Kimball drives a red-hot Camero, and back in the '70s, he used to party with your dad.
Daniel Ikaika Ito
Daniel surfs like a hippie, but dresses like a homie. The Native Hawaiian originally hails from Hilo, but now resides in Honolulu. He enjoys twin-fins, new sneakers and being ESPN's "Cuz On The Scene" in the 50th State.
Jason Kenworthy
About as majestic as a turkey vulture, when he's not schlepping his lens around the world or looking for roadkill, Jason can be found at home in Dana Point, Calif., tending to his growing brood.
