
"I watched a large great white make three unsuccessful attacks on harbor seals just out side of the river mouth. ... Was a shame, too, cause the waves were cooking! I let the day go without a surf."
That was how ESPN Surfing contributor and underground big-wave charger Noel Robinson began his last e-mail to me, and that pretty much embodies the type of person and surfer Noel was. It would take a massive, prehistoric beast to keep him out of perfect surf.
But Friday afternoon I received the tragic news that "NorCal" Noel lost his life today while out surfing Puerto Escondido in Mexico. According to Surfline, he pulled into a relatively benign wave by Puerto standards and never resurfaced. His body was found an hour later by lifeguards and friends, as reported by The Press Democrat.

Since as far back as I can remember, Noel's been a key figure in my surfing life. He was a local hero to me and my little band of "Kelp Yocals." Growing up along the Sonoma coast, Noel was the guy that was always out when the Russian Rivermouth was pulsing and everybody else was too scared to get out of their cars. He was the one in the water when the north side of Goat Rock looked like cold-water Puerto. And when the Mysto Reef were capping it was his solitary figure that could barely be made out on the horizon. He spent his winters rushing the big, uncrowded stuff north of San Francisco, saving his nickels. Come summer, he'd shed the wetsuit and migrate south to mainland Mexico. Plainly put, he was the kind of surfer we all hope to be.
"It's heart-breaking," summed up Jason Murray, who called me with the news. As of late, Noel had fallen in with Murray, Greg and Rusty Long, and Grant "Twiggy" Baker, filming their exploits when needed and surfing when time allowed. Most recently, Noel was recognized for shooting the XXL-winning video of Twiggy -- although, it should be noted that Noel was too humble to even attend the awards show, leaving all the glory for his friend Twiggy. But even after a winter to remember he'd already turned his attention south of the border. The video clip at the bottom of this post is the last piece Noel submitted to us. (He insisted his pen name be "Son B. Burnin" so as to not upset his good relationship with the locals.)

It sounds so cliché to say that at least Noel went out doing what he loved, but in these sad, unfortunate times, it rings true. So often in the surf business we get caught up with contest results or sponsorship deals or crazy, exotic scores, but none of that ever mattered to Noel. He surfed because he loved it, because he was first and foremost a surfer. It was an integral part of what drove him to live the short, glorious life that he did. Money or the spotlight was never the reason for riding big waves. For him it was about pure enjoyment and the challenge of bare-knuckling it against Mother Nature. And now, as he paddles out to the great lineup in the sky, I can only take solace in knowing that he has the pick of whatever set wave he wants.
Surf on, my friend. May you rest in peace. You will be missed.





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