Noah Snyder has now been barreled off his head every month of 2009 on the Outer Banks.
"Biggest swell of the year."
"Biggest south swell in two years!"
"Epic US Open"
"Mex is bombing."
"Did you see Trestles?"
"Summer mega-swell hits California."
Alright already. We get the idea.
We know, we know. The West Coast was insane and nine hundred surfers scored the waves of the year (all at Lowers, all at once.)
Over on the East Coast, we're happy you scored. We don't blame you. When we get waves, we can't shut up about it either. But while it was all time — best south swell anyone can remember, we actually had a little bump too.
Ray Hallgreen
The Garden Sate Grudge Match Qualifier is held 'on call' specifically for this reason.
We're not used to getting waves here in July, and we're especially not used to it when it's not of a tropical origin. Sure, last July we had over ten days of waves from the madhouse of Miami to the quiet points in Maine, but that was directly from Hurricane Bertha. This last swell had little to do with any tropical system. There may have been some tropical juice mixed in when that front pulled a low from Florida north, but there was little in the way of tropical characteristics.
What we did get was a few days of waves, anywhere from waist high to two-foot overhead. The water was near 70 (even warmer south) the whole time, and our sandbars, jetties and piers just lit up. It was almost a bonus that it wasn't some long-distance groundswell because just when we get our collective anticipation going for those and the wind, tide, and swell all line up, we get nothing but dumping close outs. (A few of you in Orange County probably have a good idea of what I'm talking about.)
James Whitney
Mitch Baker doesn't get to do many turns like this in July, so every drop of spray means something.
And unlike the West Coast's recent swell event, we can usually find a low-key spot and surf with our friends. (Think California in the 50s.)
Friday morning was the anticipated day, and it lived up to its expectations. The Smith Optics Garden State Grudge Match Qualifier was held (on call) in Seaside Park, NJ and had dudes charging down like their hair was on fire.
Meghan Whitney
If you've ever wondered why Junior standouts Fischer and Hunter Heaverly are so good at barrel riding, just look at their Pops. Roy Heaverly, the best Cub Scout dad you could have.
Everything I heard about the Outer Banks was positive as well. Those duck hunters down there are hurtin' with this economy, so every wave is like a gift. They got the brunt of the swell, which translated into some hollow fun.
Jeff Smith
Donovan didn't seem to miss the swell at home too much when he found this peak.
Donovan Frankenreiter has been touring the East Coast and scoring. On Friday evening, he was playing the historic Stone Pony, borrowed a board from Lightly Salted Surf Shop, went out off the jetty and picked off a few fun ones. I was in town that night, though I was there for the Underdog show (sorry — Donovan is a good man, but I was there for Jersey Shore hardcore, not the blues) and folks were buzzing about his session.
Saturday was a surprise. We awoke to more consistent lines and oily glass, and the early week has been the bonus. The swell just won't go away.
Meghan Whitney
All this, and just a few head out.
Was it as good as the California? Probably not —
Definitley not.
If this weekend had been a circus, we would have been the bearded woman or some other side show. But when have we ever let that bother us?
I'm going up the street to check it.
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Contributors
Jon Coen
Jon is from New Jersey and continues to reside there with his wife and dog—which means occasional empty barrels and the occasional session in the snow.The state isn't as dirty as people might think, but he'll let them keep believing that.
Jake Howard
Jake lives, writes, and surfs in San Clemente, California. He spent his formative gremlin years surfing points north of San Francisco, and for the last 10 years has been contently surviving behind the Orange Curtain.
Kimball Taylor
Author of Return by Water, as well as books on Jeffreys Bay and Pipeline, Kimball drives a red hot Camero, and back in the '70s, he used to party with your Dad.
Daniel Ikaika Ito
Daniel surfs like a hippie, but dresses like a homie. The Native Hawaiian originally hails from Hilo, but now resides in Honolulu. He enjoys twin-fins, new sneakers and being ESPN's "Cuz On The Scene" in the 50th State.
Jason Kenworthy
About as majestic as a turkey vulture, when he's not shlepping his lens around the world or looking for road kill, Jason can be found at home in Dana Point tending to his growing brood.
