Just wanted to give a little update on the East Coast mess/swell mentioned earlier this week.
As usual, the swell coincided with substantial weather news, as often happens in these parts. Some areas had Coastal Flood Warnings through eight tide cycles. We aren't even at a full moon and its been quite a mess.
Nor'easters without tropical characteristics are the bread and butter of fall surfing. (South swells are the jelly.) They mark a decisive end to the summer and early fall. Normally we welcome them from the Carolinas through Nova Scotia. Two nor'easters in a week is music to our ears. But in this case, the freaking things were on top of each other. No sooner was one scooting off the Canadian Maritime than the next was winding up off the Outer Banks. Hence, instead of that onshore and building to offshore and firing scenario, we never got that clean up in most places.
And as you can see, Mickey '2M' McCarthy snapped a few bangers for us as well. The big news, however, is that the WRV Battle of the Banks, slated for yesterday, had to be cancelled due to road closures. Basically, the ocean overtook the dunes as it does on the bigger off-season maelstroms and anyone north of the wash over couldn't even get to the event. The more protected spots around Buxton did fire, however.
Mickey '2M' McCarthy
Imagine being stuck in this quagmire, knowing that just on the other side of the washout, there are groins going mental.
The northeast curse finally relented further north, only to go straight north most of the day. This has worked out pretty well for Long Island, where there hasn't even been much time to dry the 3/2 before the next sesh.
The bottom line for New Jersey was that there was never a clean up after the first nor'easter. It's been relentless rain and onshore winds since Thursday. Our premier north wind spot had peelers up to head high today, and some Ocean City and Atlantic City spots have been getting more favorable throughout the day, but most east facers — forget it. The drift alone has been a deal breaker.
There were a few favorable reports late week from Maine, where the York crew already surfed in blowing snow — in the middle of October.
Mickey '2M' McCarthy
Hunter Heaverly slicing into his prey.
The whole soggy show should pull out tonight as we finally get some northwest winds. The Smith Optics Garden State Grudge Match will go off at Casino Pier. I predict that tomorrow morning should be pretty solid for everyone, though it will fade fast.
Stick around the site this week when we collect all the digital goods.
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Contributors
Jon Coen
Jon is from New Jersey and continues to reside there with his wife and dog—which means occasional empty barrels and the occasional session in the snow.The state isn't as dirty as people might think, but he'll let them keep believing that.
Jake Howard
Jake lives, writes, and surfs in San Clemente, California. He spent his formative gremlin years surfing points north of San Francisco, and for the last 10 years has been contently surviving behind the Orange Curtain.
Kimball Taylor
Author of Return by Water, as well as books on Jeffreys Bay and Pipeline, Kimball drives a red hot Camero, and back in the '70s, he used to party with your Dad.
Daniel Ikaika Ito
Daniel surfs like a hippie, but dresses like a homie. The Native Hawaiian originally hails from Hilo, but now resides in Honolulu. He enjoys twin-fins, new sneakers and being ESPN's "Cuz On The Scene" in the 50th State.
Jason Kenworthy
About as majestic as a turkey vulture, when he's not shlepping his lens around the world or looking for road kill, Jason can be found at home in Dana Point tending to his growing brood.
