Winter of the Chicken Skin

December, 24, 2009
Dec 24
09:24
AM ET
By Daniel Ikaika Ito

JoliHawaiians love sharing the Aloha, especially with these two.
Hawaiians call it Chicken Skin. Haole people label it equally humorous names: goose-bumps, the chills, or the heebie-jeebies. These terms are used to describe an external body function that occurs when a person has a spiritually profound moment. I experienced several of these moments on the North Shore this winter.

I've been covering the sport of surfing as a journalist on the Seven Mile Miracle for the last seven years and following it since I was a grommet in the 90's. Thus, making it increasingly difficult to feel dazzled by the annual surf circus that bombards O'ahu. After working as an assistant public and media relations for the Triple Crown, sitting in gridlock, dealing with donkeys, and stroking the egos of scrubs, I'm actually pretty eggy on the whole North Shore deal. But, this winter was different.

JoliBackdoor at your backdoor.

At the Reef Hawaiian Pro I got "Chicken Skin" when Haleiwa's Joel Centeio won at his homebreak in front of family and friends. Finally, the good guy that married his high school sweetheart won. And, the dude being idolized on the podium wasn't a womanizing derelict with a drug-filled past.

Brooke DombroskiRocking for Rell

A few weeks later at the Rell Sunn Aloha Jam I watched the whole North Shore check its collective ego at the door of Waimea Valley. We all shared a magical night of Hawaiian music to celebrate one of Hawai'i's finest Ambassadors of Aloha -- the late, great Rell Sunn. When everybody, intoxicated from booze and love, joined hands at the end of the night to sing "Hawaii Aloha," I'm sure that I wasn't the only one with "goose-bumps."

A week after, at The Anti-Canvas Art Show presented by Hurley and Contrast Magazine, I got "The Chills" when one of my mentors, Evan Slater, shook my hand and told me: "You're doing things right and keep it up." Thus, making me realize that one of the joys of the North Shore season is connecting with friends that only make it to the islands once a year.

Then there was "The Eddie," a massive gathering of friends, acquaintances, entourage, groupies, family and whoever else that follows surfing. I've always wanted to cover this event, but whenever it ran, collage got in the way. Despite taking me two hours to get from Haleiwa to the eastside of Waimea Bay, it was still an epic experience. Although the monster waves, displays of bravado in the shorebreak, and international-bro camaraderie are etched in my memory, the highlight for me was just listening to and watching Executive Contest Director George Downing.

JoliWinter on the North Shore wouldn't be complete without Mark Healy doing something like this.

What all these experiences and "Chicken Skin" really amount to is the iconic Hawaiian sentiment: Aloha. Seriously, dudes. I haven't felt Aloha this genuine on the North Shore in a long time, and I know I wasn't the only one. Besides calling our "Heebie-jeebies" a poultry body part, we also don't like to say "Goodbye" because it's so final. Instead we say, "A hui hou," which literally translates to "Till we meet again" because we all want to see you guys again.

JoliSo much Aloha.

-Daniel Ikaiko Ito is ESPN Surfing's 'Cuz on the Scene.' He's been a very busy man these last few weeks and its good to have some Aloha in our pocket. And f you like feelgood surf stuff, be sure to check back tomorrow for some Surf Season's Greetings.

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