Watch the backdoor

Backdoor, the ugly sister to Pipeline proper. It breaks in shallower water over a less predictible patch of reef, and for regulars like Jamie O'Brien, taking off on an 8-foot beast like this is all part of the ritual. "I walk out of my house and here I am," says Jamie. "It's just what we do everyday." Some walk on fire, some jump out of airplanes, others rush Backdoor. None of that's normal, but it is admirable. (Tom Servais)