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Doin' Thangs: Chris Malloy

Updated: November 19, 2008, 4:57 PM ET
By and Micah Abrams | EXPN.com

Chris Malloy is a surfing archetype—the kind of globetrotting, wave-discovering swashbuckler that defined the sport before things like a "sponsorship" or a "Nine Time World Champion" existed. For the better part of 20 years, Malloy has spent more time traveling than he's spent at his home near Ventura, California. Now 36 and building a family, Malloy's cutting back a bit. "I've been doing this since I was about 18," he says. "I used to be in one place for, at the most, two months. ...

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