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T.S. Danny Swell

Updated: June 15, 2010, 12:18 PM ET
By Jon Coen

First off, I want to start today's post by wishing everyone a happy September 1st. I am aware that the mainstream public still associates surfing with summer. You know, bikinis, the Beach Boys — all that bull. But surfers have favored September to summer since Brian Wilson fist went to rehab in 1965.

So, the weekend warriors made out again. It's been two weekends in a row that the swell has peaked. The Monday through Friday crew has to be stoked on that. By Monday morning, the ...

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