Kids in a NY Candy Store
As a surfer there are days that live in our psyche for years memories we use to calm us through rough patches in life (or simply flat spells.)
It's ironic how many of these days don't have names. Certain swells have names. There was the epic "West Coast Summer '09" affair in late July and "Tropical Storm Danny" on the East Side. Sometimes I have to wonder if El Nino isn't just something invented by surf journalists. But for all the attention we bring to these events, (this ...
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