As I write this the swell to end all swells is already filling in. Typing from a back deck at Off The Wall, sets are piggybacking on top of one another, as the new, rising swell rapidly overtakes the old, fading swell. Whitewash is being fired 50 feet into the blue sky. The once crowded Pipe/Backdoor lineup is thinning quickly.
"What are we going to do?" asks my neighbor, Uncle Rico. "You think it'll wash through the yard up here?"
I'm not equipped to answer those ...
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