In praise of the common (super) man
The 2011 Billabong XXL Big Wave Awards preview
"I'll be back," said Jacob Trette. "I love that wave."
Grabbing a burrito at a greasy-spoon taco stand in San Clemente, Calif., you'd never guess a couple months ago Trette was waking up in an intensive care unit after surviving a nearly life-ending two-wave hold down at Maverick's. He admits his hair has gone a little salt and pepper since then, but otherwise there are no lasting effects. He's your typical work-a-day, mid-30s surf dad grabbing a quick carne asada bite before ...
Read full story