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6 Keys To Surviving Monster Surf

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Keala Kennelly

Photograph By ASP/Robertson

"Some days I sit on the beach and don't like how I feel or what I see. Something just isn't right. When I was younger, going out was about bravado. But now I'm like, 'Know what? I'm cool. I'll sit this one out.' Confidence comes and goes; you just have to capitalize on the moments when you're feeling good."