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Monday, July 21, 2008
Updated: August 5, 4:28 PM ET

You can't escape the Fuwas. But, then again, why would you want to?

Rounding the corner—17 days left until Opening Ceremonies.

It's been a seven-year marathon for China's Olympic planners—longer, really, since Beijing was a finalist in 1993 to host the 2000 Games—but we've finally made it to the home stretch. As August 8 nears, a recent spate of initiatives has helped Beijing find its sprinting legs. From the past few days: JULY 15 Three "defense lines" of security checkpoints are established, offering layers of protection for the center of the city—fitting because Old Beijing used to be surrounded by a massive wall dotted with gates with names like "Gate of Virtuous Triumph" and "Gate of Heavenly Peace" (Tiananmen). Mao Zedong ordered the walls torn down when he took power, but the gates have retained their names to this day.

JULY 16: Colorful flowers—2.6 million of them—liven up Beijing's central business district.

CIRCA JULY 18: Fuwas—the official Olympic mascots—appear in hotel lobbies throughout the city.

JULY 19 Two new subway lines open: the long-awaited Airport Express Line and Line 10. A third line is expected to be operational by the start of the Olympics.


Add these to the small changes that have taken effect in the past month—we're talking park toilet upgrades and renaming of menu items—and it's apparent this is a country with a pathological need for these Olympics to go as planned. It has spent a record $42 billion, after all. The transformation can feel dizzying, even to locals. Ding Zhanming, a 40-year-old taxi driver who has lived in Beijing all his life, couldn't find a road in the western part of the city because, in just the last week, it had been appended to connect to another street. "Look at the banners, look at the flowers," he said as we sped down Eternal Peace Avenue, the main East-West thoroughfare cutting through the heart of the city. "The changes have happened very fast." But fast enough? Beijing's said for months that they're ready; soon we'll get to see if they're right.


Torch relay update: Just passed: Qingdao, recently cleared of algae and visited by President Hu Jintao. Next up: Linyi, a 2,400-year-old city in Shandong Province, the excavation site of the oldest military treatise in the world, The Art of War.

For the Beijing Bureau archive, click here.