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Summer surf in Hawaii was flatter than a middle school dance. Thank goodness the autumn waves have been busting out like the bosom of a recently divorced cougar.
The North Shore of O'ahu was blessed with three weeks of head-high to overhead surf, and the local boys scored. Haleiwa resident Joel Centeio is still frothing on the relatively empty lineups and quality surf in The Country.
"The first swell came around September 20th, and I can't wait for the early season because there is nobody around -- it's just the local crew with me and the boys," said Centeio. "We had a couple of days that were just incredible and the crowd was minimal, you get a lot of time in the water and just get ready for the season that's about to come."
While there was still too much sand on the beach for Pipeline to do its thing, it seemed like every other North Shore surf spot was firing during September and well into October. For Centeio, one of the more memorable sessions of this past stretch of swell was a solid, six-foot surf at Laniakea with Sean Moody where they were able to "put some dents" in their new big boards.
For North Shore residents like Centeio and Moody, these autumn months function as a preseason to the upcoming winter, giving the surfers a chance to dial in their big-wave quivers and prepare for major events like the HIC Pro and the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing.
|Pancho Sullivan, putting his own mark on the North Shore's early season.|
"I haven't got a whole lot of surfing in this summer, so to get this long stretch of waves it was really good for me," said Centeio who is looking to defend his Reef Hawaiian Pro title at Haleiwa. "I'm really excited to get into the rest of winter."
North Shore resident Willi Edwards was on it with Centeio, capturing incredible still images and video footage from the Seven Mile Miracle. The following content from Rocky Point to Velzyland is sure to get you in the mood for the North Shore winter to come.